Tuesday 31 October 2017

Chile

Chile

   Chile has a varied landscape. From the northern deserts of Atacama to the snow fields of Patagonia.
All of it is absolutely stunning. 
With things to see on both sides of the Chilean/Argentinean border we found ourselves constantly crossing from one country to the other as we move south along the Andes Mountain Range.
Weather also became a determining factor on where we headed at any given point in time. Because of the Andes range it is invariably a lot wetter on the Chilean side of the mountains. If we wanted more sunshine we cross over to Routa 40 in Argentina. 
Because of this difference in precipitation we also found a marked difference in the amount and type of vegetation over a short distance, with Argentina generally being a lot less lush. 

Chile is the country that has probably the strongest economy in South America and as such has the best road infrastructure. This means that white knuckles are no longer the norm for Gael. In Peru she  often tried to climb over me to get as far away from a cliff edge as was possible. 
Traveling north/south from Colombia to Chile means that the weather gets noticeably cooler the further south we go 
(as in Oz), although this is moderated by the fact that we have been moving out of winter into summer. Many Overlanders, particularly Europeans, tend to ship into Montevideo in Uruguay and head south to get to Patagonia over summer.



Arriving in Chile after the Laguna Route through south Western Bolivia. The road drops thousands of metres from the Chile/Bolivian border into the nearest town San Pedro de Atacama.


Campsite in a gravel pit near San Pedro de Atacama (looking back up to the Bolivian Altiplano and its many Volcanos). Gravel pits can be an Overlanders best friend as they often provide a visual and noise barrier if there is any activity in the area.





Gael and the locals at flora and fauna reserve Los Flamingoes, Soncor Chaxa Laguna. That's a line of volcano's on the horizon along the Andean border with Argentina.  We crossed it many times as we drove south to Patagonia mainly because the weather in Chile was often wet whereas Argentina was always clear.


Heading east to Routa 40 in Argentina from Chile across the Andes.
The pass between the two countries lies at 4780 metres, the highest border pass in Sth America


Camping on the Chilean coast near the town of Conception. A busy stretch of coast but still possible to find a quiet spot for the night to wild camp. South America is a cheap place to travel, thanks mainly to the excellent opportunities when it comes to wild camping. 


Again on the Chilean coast, black volcanic sand on most of the beaches.


Always keep the engine running.



The weather, whilst not particularly cold, was often damp along the Chilean coast.


Landslides are a common occurrence throughout this part of Chile.



Explored Tolhuaca National Parque with massive mountains and delightful little rushing steams.




Heavy snow on the road stopped us from using this route to cross the Andes back to Argentina for some fine weather.


High road into the Andes never disappoint. Always spectacular vistas.


Bloody hell Claude, my feet are freezing! Vicunas always gives us a buzz when we see these hardy beautiful guys.


A wonderful lunch spot beside one of the many salty lagunas.


These strange ice formations are called 'penitente'. They form at high altitude and point roughly toward the sun. There you go!


It was so cold Gael put on just about every bit of clothing she had.


Llaima Volcano. The ranger told us it had been rumbling lately so don't get any closer.


Parked amongst ancient Araucaria trees that grow at high altitudes. They look a bit like Bunya Pines.


Camped by a rushing alpine stream with Antarctic Beech trees all around. A magic spot.


We just loved these unusual trees.


Great spot for lunch off the road sheltered from the biting wind.


Lucky to get though this road it had just been cleared of snow. Thank goodness.


Had to stop to take in this great view on the way to the town Villa Cerro Castillo.


Cerro Castillo an impressive jagged mountain range.


Carretera Austral an amazing dramatic scenic highway in Southern Patagonian Chile.


Valleys with huge cliffs and beech tree forests.


 Damp weather but the country was magic.


Rob had his beanie and "Tasmanian tuxedo" on in this chilly part of Chile.


Some of the farmers are doing it tough down here.


Beautiful lakes.


Fantastic fjords.


Wild camping by a quiet fjord and not a sole around.


Always on the lookout for a Panaderia for some fresh rolls.


Old church amongst huge beech trees.


Glacier at the end of this valley in Pumalin National Park. 


One of the few remaining stands of the ancient Alerces trees a type of cypress. These were preserved for posterity by the founder of the clothing company North Face and Esprit, Douglas Tompkins. He eventually conserved over two million acres in southern Chile to create Pumalin Park. It was donated to the Chilean people after his tragic death whilst kayaking in 2015. With additions from the Chilean government is now a National Park covering eleven million acres. It contains glaciers, volcano's and vast forests stretching from the Pacific to the Andes. What a legacy!


A steaming volcano in Pumalin N.P. It last erupted in 2008.

             
Our lovely camp site in the park with that smoldering volcano in the background.


Parked in front of a bus cafe so we could use their wifi while enjoying great coffee and cake in Chaiten. A fresh dusting of snow on nearby mountains.



Uh Oh! Looks like a road block up ahead and we are in the middle of a snow storm.


We were stuck here for 4 hours together with 2 fellow Overlander vehicles from Switzerland.
They kindly invited us into one of the campers for some wine and laughs which helped the time pass.


With snow piled up on our spare tyre on the bonnet we inched our way down the mountain to Villa Santa Lucia where we turn east towards the mountains (and Argentina again). There was a deadly mudslide later in December that killed 20 people and cut the hwy for weeks at this town.)


Lunch by a nice lake in Futaleufu the last town before crossing over the Andes to Argentina. Our last border crossing for a while.


Chilean border post as we leave Chile for the last time.