Friday, 15 September 2017

Bolivia

Bolivia

After driving along the southern shore of Lake Titicaca in Peru we cross into Bolivia. 

La Paz the Bolivian capital offered little that we were looking for so we moved on further east towards Santa Cruz. The road gradually looses altitude as it drops down into the Amazon basin and the border crossing into Brazil.
Lots and lots of police check points in this area along the Bolivian/Brazil border as it is popular with smugglers. Have no idea what is smuggled but your movements are monitored closely by the military.

After our brief crossing into Brazil and the Pantanal wetlands we backtrack into Bolivia again and head towards, Sucre, Potosi and eventually the salt lakes of Uyuni.
The scenery in Bolivia takes in lakes, mountains, wetlands and the high Altiplano. Amazing variety!

One of the most frustrating parts of traveling in Bolivia is getting fuel. Foreign registered vehicles have to pay more for theirs and not all service stations want to sell it to you. Pump sales to foreigners are closely monitored with surveillance cameras. You often have to park away from the service station, walk to the pump with a jerry can, and lug it back to the vehicle to fill your tank. After I had humped several 100 litres around the block on various occasions, I was less than satisfied with the system they have in place.

Like Peru, Bolivia could do with a good vacuuming!


Only place to camp before the Bolivian border was this small camp site behind Hotel Casablanca in Peru overlooking Lake Titicaca. Paul, an Aussie and his family, camped beside us in the slide on camper they purchased in the States. They were driving it to Southern Argentina where they were going to sell it to someone going north. We caught up with them a few times on our way south.

Camped beside Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side near the town of Copacabana just visible in the distance. Copacabana is the largest town on the shore of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia.




Eucalyptus poles for sale with La Paz unique architecture in the background.  La Paz  took some getting into as there were some unhappy locals who decided to cover the road from Titicaca in rocks of assorted sizes. We headed off road (along with everyone else) across farm paddocks and back roads to enter La Paz through the back door.
La Paz can be variously described as a chaotic, dug up, and congested.



Busy market but didn't stop . We wanted to get thru La Paz as it was chaotic.


She's just bought a nice new llama.

Well what a difference Sucre was.  In stark contrast to dusty La Paz.


Lovely colonial style buildings. You can see why Sucre is called the white city.

Tiny back yard Sucre camp ground of Alberto and Felicidad. We squeezed in with seven overlander campers from all parts of the world.


We came across this beautiful bridge on the way out of Sucre. Going nowhere. Quite bizarre.


We drove the Che Guevara Route across a rugged mountain track. Che came to his final end at the hands of the pursuing Bolivian police, ably assisted by the CIA, in the village La Higuera. After capture he was executed. Trials are expensive!


Yes, that is a sheep standing on top of a bus. He has a wild ride ahead of him over the rough mountain roads of Bolivia.


Herds of these llamas with their colorful ID tags roam the vast Bolivian landscape.  Pretty flash eh.

Warning of more up ahead.



That's us. The little dot in the middle. We camped all alone on the edge of an amazing canyon on the road to Potosi. Remote and quiet, the only movement were condors soaring above.






A hangman effigy dangling from a signpost is a reminder to the bad guys of the rough justice handed out by the locals. Vigilante justice is common against criminals in Bolivia, apparently 70% of crimes are dealt with by locals who don't have much confidence in the police.


Not many places to camp on the way to the Brazilian border and the Pantanal wetlands. This was a gravel pit not far from the road.


That's Rob over the road at a military check point near the Brazilian border. We were stopped at eight on the way, they wanted to see our temporary import permit and passport mainly. Manned by young guys with machine guns trying to act tough and important. Rob always managed to return with the appropriate stamp on our documents.



What an amazing ornately carved huge church. Surprising to find this in San Miguel eastern Bolivia.


At last Toucans on a bush track just near a small village called Santa Ana de Chiquitos where we camped just on dusk.  The women in the village gave us the OK to camp near the village school.


Bypassing Potosi on the way to the salt lake at Uyuni. Potosi is a mining town that the Spanish used to fill the vaults back home. At an elevation of over 4000 metres it can get cool. 


The rubbish on the roadside in Potosi was horrific. A dusty, polluted, dump of a place where the local Bolivians scratch out a living. It would have to be one of the dirtiest places we have passed through in South America. Reminiscent of parts of Morocco half a world away. So depressing, but so, so, common. Our planet deserves better!
The contrast between Sucra and Potosi is stark! 


The salt lake just outside Uyuni (another shitty Bolivian town). A tourist hub that has tourism focused on the salt lakes as its main money spinner. The town itself offers little, other than serving as a base for what must be thousands of 4x4's, that ferry thousands of sheeple to the salt flats, and surrounding Laguna's. 



The Laguna Route.  A very rough, high altitude, but stunningly beautiful drive past volcanoes and colorful salt lagoons dotted with flamingos. A must do drive from Uyuni in Bolivia to San Pedro De Atacama in Chile. 


We couldn't believe our eyes when we came across a cyclist on the bleak, freezing, windy and dusty drive at above 4000 meters on the Laguna route.


And here he is all the way from Switzerland. He was grateful for the vegetables which we gave him. He was the toughest cyclist we had met on our trip. A super human effort.


Gael trying to take that perfect shot, but they show little interest.


The lakes were full of them. Just great.

Red Laguna, the white dots are flamingos.


We came across these strange ice formations all along the Laguna Route. It looked like it was growing out of the ground.  We wild camped along the route for several nights. At 4,400 meters it was perishingly cold.
Our water bottles, left on the bench top overnight, were frozen solid in the morning. 


Pretty little Vicunas.  How they survive in such a harsh salty environment on the Bolivian Altiplano is incredible.




Monday, 21 August 2017

Stunning scenic Peru but with serious environmental issues.

Pisac Sacred Valley.



Peru 

The crossing from Ecuador into Peru was fairly uneventful although a bit drawn out. They don't get a lot of Australian registered vehicles over this way, so the paperwork takes a while.

We were in Peru back in 2014. On that occasion we did the tourist hot spots with the other sheeple of a like mind, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, Puno to Cusco train ride, Colca Canyon, etc. All major tourist draw cards for Peru and on the established tourist loop.

This trip has seen us cover a great deal more of the ‘real Peru’. Stunning scenery tempered by the necessity to drive some of the worlds most dangerous roads. The northern half of the country inland route N3 traverses some truly mountainous country. With mountains ranges like the Cordillera Blanca come truly terrifying though spectacular roads. There are in fact fifteen plus 6000mtr peaks to be found in this one mountain range. Spectacular!!

Peru is much poorer than its northern neighbors Colombia and Ecuador. This is evidenced by the poor standard of housing (mud brick) and the noticeable poverty. 
Rubbish is a shocking problem in Peru. Low standards of environmental education and education generally, poor infrastructure, and apathy, mean that Peru has some serious environmental issues.

Rubbish of the towns aside, Peru has some absolutely stunning natural scenery. And of course there are the Inca ruins to marvel at.




If you zoom in you can see Rob standing at the bottom of one of Yumbilla Falls near Chachapoyas, Northern Peru in the Amazons region. It has several sections and is 3rd highest waterfall in Sth America and the 5th highest in the world.

                                                                     
There he is.


This is Santiago a real character and
photographer from El Salvador we met at our camp at the trail head of Yambilla Falls



Just a few kilometres away were the 4th highest falls in Sth America, Gocta Falls. Impressive eh!

Hiking to  Pre Inca cliff burial tombs.

And this is what we saw.

This road was pretty scary. One lane, with oncoming traffic, cliffs one side, blind corners and a 800 to 1000 mtr plus drop. A previously heavy rainy season had under cut the bitumen in many places on the drop off side.


We camped here on a dead end road to a Pre-Inca fortress.


Early mornings on the road, saw ladies after milking their cows in the paddock, walking the milk cans to a truck pick up point.

Animal market day roads were choked with people walking their animals
down to the action. Not impressed when the bull with the big arse nearly wiped out the trucks side mirror.

The first nice Peruvian camp site at Hacienda San Antonio in Cajamarca. A chance to catch up with some washing.

Cajamarca a typical  Peruvian city.

Pre Inca aquaduct cut 3000 years ago with stone tools pretty amazing and it still works.


It looks like after we drive down to the river in the valley, we'll be going up the other side.


 Yep! That's what my Maps.Me navigation app. is telling me.


Sacrifice towers at pre inca plateau fortress Marcahuamachuco.


The plateau fortress was over 2kms in length and had a 360 degrees views of the surrounding area.


Sad to see plastic rubbish dumped outside every town. 


Most farmers still use oxen and with a basic wooden plough.

                           
This section of Canon del Plato was hairy with crumbly rock overhangs.


We counted about 40 tunnels like this in the canon.  A stunning drive with massive mountains above and a river in the valley.
We met a couple who managed to get their 12 tonne truck stuck in one of these.
Small can be good when it comes to clearance in tunnels, overgrown tracks, passing under overhanging tree branches, driving narrow roads with crumbling edges, crossing load limited bridges (of which there are many in rural Sth America), etc, etc.


This is tall hat country, they look weird.


Cusco and the incredible Incan fortress Sacsaywaman.


The Sacred Valley has so much to see. This is the ruins of Pisac. An amazing Inca site high on a mountain.


The Cordillea de Blanca circuit drive, fabulous scenery whilst passing through small rural villages.


More stunning scenery. 


Where you have stunning scenery, you more often than not have some challenging roads.


Moray Inca site has some amazing agricultural terracing.


Saltia Inca salt works of Peru. Still in use today.

Met Jonno from Perth riding from Ushuaia (the southern most point), to Colombia (the northern most point) of the south American Continent. Gael gave him a jar of Vegemite which he had been craving. The push bike riders we met in South America are a breed apart! Real adventurers, not pussies like us.


Carved out of solid rock. A ceremonial Inca platform at our lunch break stop beside Lake Titicaca.


Taking a ferry across Lake Titicaca from Peru to Bolivia.
Life is good!